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Stub Axle weld gives way at 50mph, excitement follows...
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Wolffarmer
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Joined: 02 May 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think if that frame ever comes apart. You will have other things on your mind.

Shocked

Looks mighty fine to me.

Randy
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pete.wilson
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey

I'm no frame expert by any means but should'nt the A-frame have a rear cross member and another maybe towards the front of where the tear body meets the frame to help with twisting motions? I realize that is deminished once the body of the tear is bolted down, but I would trust steel frame members over the wood body. As it is, your relying a lot on the welds of just the axle to resist the flexing motion of those long side rails. Other than that, it's a great looking and relatively simple trailer. Is this correct? Thinking

Pete Wilson
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Corwin C
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pete.wilson wrote:
Hey

I'm no frame expert by any means but should'nt the A-frame have a rear cross member and another maybe towards the front of where the tear body meets the frame to help with twisting motions? I realize that is deminished once the body of the tear is bolted down, but I would trust steel frame members over the wood body. As it is, your relying a lot on the welds of just the axle to resist the flexing motion of those long side rails. Other than that, it's a great looking and relatively simple trailer. Is this correct? Thinking

Pete Wilson


The twisting forces that a trailer frame of this type would experience are minimal or any other single axle trailer for that matter. Essentially there are three points of contact that are holding the trailer up, each tire and the hitch. The hitch actually acts as a swivel (because it is a ball joint) and should eliminate most of the twisting forces. There are limits to the flexibility of that joint, but unless you're doing some serious off-road, it shouldn't be a factor.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's taken me a while due to other commitments, but the remedial work has taken place.

Every weld has been rewelded, and as an extra precaution a 1 1/2" steel strap has been wrapped around the stub axle and cross member and this too has been welded in place.

Just for my peace of mind I also added a "breakaway" cable. If the bolts and welds and steel strap should fail, the stub axle and wheel assembly might at least stay with the vehicle and not bounce into oncoming traffic.

Overkill perhaps, but I'd rather err on the side of caution.

This picture was taken underneath the trailer...


This picture is annotated...

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emiller
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think another thing some over look is that axles torsion or leaf are rated as a pair. 2000# axles means each axle will handle 1000#. On a torsion axle if your trailer weighs 1200#'s there is the chance of over stressing the axle because the torsion axles cant equalize the weight like sprung leaf spring axles. You need to make sure you get the proper size torsion axles to handle the weight. Not saying you will be driving on two wheels all the time but if you have pot holes like we have here in the States. On my first tear it was a 5x10 with 2000# axle from Northern Tool and both sides bent in at the top so I replaced it with a 3500# axle and 2000# springs. I think the same happened to Outback Teardrop. I think in your case the weld broke do to bad weld job. The metal should tear before a weld breaks.
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pete42
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pete.wilson wrote:

I'm no frame expert by any means but should'nt the A-frame have a rear cross member and another maybe towards the front Thinking
Pete Wilson


Is not the cross piece the axel is welded to a cross member?
when I first looked at the picture my thoughts too that another cross member would have been nice to have for added strength.

to AL when I first started welding the one thing that was hard to do was weld a thick piece to a thin piece be it a box member or just two pieces of metal to hot and you burn holes to cold and it doesn't pentatrate into the thick piece. your fix looks good to me, for what ever that's worth.
Pete
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Ratkity
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm glad you have everything fixed and now have peace of mind that things are gonna stay together!

Time to go CAMPING!

Hugs,
Ratkity
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afreegreek
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never liked the look of those stub axles.. your situation is exactly what I've always seen as the reason to stay away from stubbies. personally, I'd never use them, a full width axle is so much better in every way.. I also like thru-bolts or U-bolts over welds..
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bve
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No offense but those screw clamps aren't going to hold squat, and I hope they never get tested.


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asianflava
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bve wrote:
No offense but those screw clamps aren't going to hold squat, and I hope they never get tested.


They have cable clamps made just for that application. They look like miniature U-bolts.
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afreegreek
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cable splicing isn't hard to learn.. there's plenty of websites that have well illustrated step by step procedures.. I used to be a logger and had to learn.. it took me about 3 or 4 splices to catch on.. we used 'Marlin spikes' about 30 inches long but we were working with real cable.. you could easily use a big straight blade screwdriver for little cable..

here's two methods.. the first can be done when you need the eye through something.. the second won't work like that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBlvFRDHdgM
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eamarquardt
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

afreegreek wrote:
cable splicing isn't hard to learn.. there's plenty of websites that have well illustrated step by step procedures.. I used to be a logger and had to learn.. it took me about 3 or 4 splices to catch on.. we used 'Marlin spikes' about 30 inches long but we were working with real cable.. you could easily use a big straight blade screwdriver for little cable..

here's two methods.. the first can be done when you need the eye through something.. the second won't work like that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBlvFRDHdgM


The first splice looks very easy for the "average Joe" at home except for the part that requires the 500 TON PRESS. Actually I think a nicopress would suffice for small cable. I've tried it in the past but didn't know know deal with the three/four split of a 7 lay cable but now that I've seen it done it makes sense. Who needs "Guy Grips" now!

Now I'm one step closer to putting up my 50 foot telescoping tv antenna tower (that may also work on some ham frequencies) and getting the letter from the HOA telling me to take it down. The HOA board hasn't quite haven't figured out that Congress sez I can put up any TV antenna (CCRs be damned) without the HOA's permission and there is NOTHING they can do about it except appeal to the FCC who will say it's ok unless it's unsafe (meaning if it falls, it won't all land on my property which mine will) or is disturbing a historical site (my humble abode is not a historical site).

http://www.fcc.gov/mb/facts/otard.html

I digress.

Cheers,

Gus
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have also added two of these per stub axle. Four in total.

They clamp the stub axles to the crossmember.



I tried to locally source U clamps that were large enough without success.

The straps are 1" x 1/4". Both the bolts and straps are galvanised.

I also take on bve's point about the screw clamps (without offense) ;).

I tried to buy the correct wire rope fastners, but they were out of stock. I will buy them online and not rely on those little screw clamps.
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Larry C
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigAl wrote:
It's taken me a while due to other commitments, but the remedial work has taken place.

Every weld has been rewelded, and as an extra precaution a 1 1/2" steel strap has been wrapped around the stub axle and cross member and this too has been welded in place.

Just for my peace of mind I also added a "breakaway" cable. If the bolts and welds and steel strap should fail, the stub axle and wheel assembly might at least stay with the vehicle and not bounce into oncoming traffic.

Overkill perhaps, but I'd rather err on the side of caution.

This picture was taken underneath the trailer...


This picture is annotated...


Big Al,
I am curious about what you found caused the welds to fail??? Confused

Your safety cable (AKA wire rope) idea, even done properly looks a bit weak. I would think chain may be better suited for what your doing. Maybe 1/4"- 5/16 Grade 70 transport chain.

If you stay with the cable:

When you order the cable clamps, there are cheap zinc plated malleable clamps and there are forged clamps (Crosby) that are hot dip galvanized.
The forged ones are much better (holding power). Also, be sure to get the correct number of clamps per end.

It looks like your using 1/4" Galv. Aircraft cable 7X19 or maybe 7x7. I can't recall the exact number required for the size of cable, but I think it's 3 or 4 per end.

Also, be sure to orient the clamps all the same direction with the u-bolt on the turned back (dead end of the cable). The saddle is on the long side.
"Never Saddle A Dead Horse" There is also a torque spec for the nuts.

$.02
Larry C
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Larry, Thanks for your advice. The original welds failed due to lack of penetration.

The guy who originally did them used one of those smaller MIG welders.

When I had the welds redone, the workshop that rewelded them did so with a larger and much more powerful unit. As a result the welds are much thicker, and hopefully stronger.
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